The Surat Art Silk Cloth Manufacturers Association
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History -----------------------------01
Catalogue -------------------------02
Photo Gallery ---------------------03
Textile Industries ---------------04
Activities ---------------------------05
Surat -------------------------------06
  About Us  
  History of The Surat Art Silk Cloth Manufacturers Association from 25-2-1955 to 25-2-2004  
  The existence of the Industry in Surat dates back to 1925. During the Mogul reign on account of perfect trade policy the Kinkhab weavers of Surat were artisan themselves producing intricate designs on handlooms with silk and jari. At that time a large number of handlooms were functioning at this center and raw silk as well as jari threads were the main raw materials for manufacture of textiles. Gradually with the invention of electricity, young entrepreneurs engaged in this Industry converted handloom to power driven and later on installed the power looms discarded by the Cotton Mills commenced production after certain modifications so as to make them suitable for manufacturing pure silk fabrics and with this change over, the production increased rapidly, the quality improved significantly, physical labour and strains were reduced to some extent and ultimately resulted in higher earnings for the power loom weavers. In fact the Industry's structure resembles to that of the Cottage Industry System prevalent in Japan. It was domestic Industry where there were 1,500 units and the members of the family usually maintained themselves by working on an average 8 power looms each. They hardly employ any other staff. Thus the power looms were more or less being dispersed into small decentralized units.  
  Between the years 1935-37 with the advent of protection offered to this Industry by way of heavy duty on import of Art Silk fabrics, the Power loom Industry gradually grew into a small nucleus with total installed capacity of 1,200 power looms in Surat and by the time the second world war broke out, the Industry was yet in its infant stage. Though after the war, the development of this industry has advanced slowly but steadily. In Surat the Industry has achieved a spectacular progress.  
  Today Surat and surrounding South Gujarat region is the biggest center of Art Silk Weaving Industry in India where more than 5,00,000 power loom are working producing about 600 Crores Mts. of cloth i.e. about l/3rd of the man made filament fabrics. This Industry has played a phenomenal role in the industrial development plans of the Textiles and it is beyond doubt that the self accomplished progress of the industry has attracted the attention of the ever changing world to this decentralised industry at Surat.  
  After the 2nd world war ended, in early fifties the entrepreneur-weavers installed Japanese machines for weaving, twisting etc. and started importing staple fibre spun and viscose filament yarn to manufacture art silk fabrics. Local machinery manufactures also started manufacturing psudakoma and Toyoda and Auru models of weaving and twisting machines suitable for weaving fine and superfine fabrics.  
  This was the 1st phase of upgradation of machinery prevailed in local industry. Small weavers also started gradually replacing their machineries. During that period, there was a legal restriction to obtain the permit for installation or to endorse alteration of looms in the existing permit granted by the Textile Commissioner. Also small weavers naturally could not import the yarn directly for their consumption. Small weavers engaged the services of Late Shri Ishwarlal Mehta who was practicing as advisor to industrial units to assist them in attending their problem.  
  In view of the multiplicity of these problems, Shri Ishwarlal Mehta approached, one of the pioneer in this industry Shri Jayantilal Vakharia, the owner of M/s. Standard Silk Mills, to discuss the best way to facilitate the small weavers. It was decided to form an Association of weavers under Section 25(1) (a) under the Companies Act, which prescribes that the Association will carry out its activities on "No Loss No Profit" principle. Thus, "Surat Art Silk Cloth Manufacturers Association" came into existence on 25th February 1955 under the able Chairmanship of another Textile luminary Late Shri Chimanlal Bhanawala and Late Shri Jayantilal Vakharia as Chairman of Board of Advisory, Late Shri Ishwarlal Mehta took over as founder Secretary. The main objects included were (1) to represent the cause of the industry before Central and State Governments, local bodies and at other Semi Government or public authorities and organizations (2) to jointly carry out the purchases of raw materials and sales for the needy members, (3) to educate and facilitate members about emerging trends in technology in machinery and raw materials and (4) such other activities that promotes the industry in general.  
  As stated earlier, the main raw materials that emerged in fifties and sixties were staple fibre yarn and viscose yarn. The Association procured and supplied these yarns worth of Rs.4 Crorers to small weavers during 1955 to 1962. They also distributed between 1966-1967 indigenous viscose filament yarn worth Rs-7 Crorers allotted to the Association as per Central Government distribution scheme. Our Association had the honour to be the member of the distribution committee representing South Gujarat Region.  
  During this period, from the surplus of nominal service charges, the Association undertook the project to construct its own Building not only to house its own activity but also to provide space to government and semi-government organizations related to industry and particularly textiles. The Seven storeyed Building was the first multistoried building in Surat city and was appropriately named "Resham Bhavan".  
  At the end of sixties, nylon was introduced as raw material in the Surat Industry by manufacturers of Japan and with mono Nylon warp, and viscose and acrylic spun yarn as weft, many varieties were successfully marketed. During this period, the Association supplied imported as well as indigenous nylon worth Rs.10 Crs. to the members.  
  Our Association was the leading organization in advocating establishment of Nylon and polyester filament yarn in Co-Operative Sector. As a result, Co-Operative Plant "Gujarat Nylons" with Gujarat Industrial Investment Corporation and Petrofils Co-Operative with Indian Petro Chemicals Ltd. were established and our Chairman Shri Arunchandra N. Jariwala was appointed Director representing consumers on both the companies by Gujarat and Central Governments.  
  To participate in the above projects, the Association established Surat Art Silk Cloth Producers Co-Operative Society in the year 1975 for the participation of its members. Afterwards indigenous yarns were catered to the members from the Co-Operative Society. The Society celebrated its Silver Jubilee in 2001 with a project to participate in Garment fair at Hyderabad in association with NIFT, Gujarat and NIFT Hyderabad. Twenty members participated. Six numbers of sequences were presented in the Fashion Show also. This was an humble step to market Surat Fabrics in Garment Industry. Members are taking increasing advantage of indigenous purchasing their raw material requirement and last year we facilitated members to purchase yarn worth Rs.18/- Crs. in compared to Rs.6/- Crs. In mid sixties to mid seventies Nylon ruled the industry from mid sixties to mid seventies in Surat but from mid seventies onwards polyester filament gradually overtook in the race- After the establishment of Co-Operative Society, Association concentrated on import of yarns for their members. In 1978 it imported yarn worth Rs.l Cr. including "Bemberg" a specialty cellulosic yarn from Asahi through Itochu for the first time. In 2003, the import have increased to Rs.15/- Crs. majority being Bemberg and polyester. We are proud of our relationship with Asahi and Itochu for more than 25 years and its Silver Jubilee Year was celebrated last year in Bombay. The Society gave loan without interest to needy members during, communal riot in 1992 year and flood in 1998 year, we are glad to note that members paid their loan without any default,  
  The Association felt the need for education, testing and research establishment like ATIRA and SASMIRA at the doorstep of this power loom center. It took the initiative to represent to State Government for education and Central Government for testing and research facilities for the Industry. The Association took the initiative to establish SASCMA Man Made Textile Testing & Research Association in March, 1974 on the 7th floor of Resham Bhavan. Certificate Courses of Gujarat Government were started in 1974 and first year of diploma course was also introduced which was latter transferred at Gandhi Engineering College, Surat. The Institution was also recognised by Dept. of Science and Technology and hence donation to the institution was 100% exempted from Income-tax. The institution introduced the Seminar culture in the industry by conducting three Seminars in collaboration with ATIRA, Retrofits and Textile Club. It also provided testing and technical service facilities to the industry for the first time. Our efforts with the Government of India to establish an independent testing and research institution at the doorstep of Surat were successful in 1977 with the permission to establish SASCMA Man Made Textile Testing & Research Association. Hence this institution was merged on 15-3-1981 with MANTRA.  
  Ours was one of the leading Association to bring various regional associations on common platform and establish the Federation of Indian Art Silk Weaving Industry (FIASWI).FIASWI celebrated its Silver Jubilee last year. The Association has the honour to chair FIASWI first in 1981 and later from 1994. Our Chairman had honour of being member of important Committees viz. Abid Hussain Committee, Mira Sheth Committee Expert Committee on Textiles, Expert Committee on Technical Textiles, Inter Ministerial Seering Committee of TUF and its Technical Advisory Committee of TUF & Textile Committee etc. We are grateful that FIASWI has been given due representation on all the Committees by the Ministry of Textiles, Government of India.  
  The Association has settled a trust "Man Made Weaving Industry Welfare & Relief Trust" for ail round development of the industry. The Trust have donated Rs.50 Lakhs to Sarvajanik Education Society which has set up self finance Engineering College. With the donation of our Trust, a faculty of Textile Technology and Engineering have been established for graduate and post graduate/diploma courses. From next year "NCUTE" syllabus shall be adopted for the graduate courses. Surat Technical Education & Research Society has been conducting Diploma Certificate and Short Time Courses for the benefit of the Industry. Our Trust has donated Rs.40/- Lakhs to establish SASCMA NODAL CENTER FOR TECHNICAL UPGRADATION. In this Center state of art machineries viz. auto loom, rapier loom, projectile loom, water jet loom, air jet loom etc. and warping and preparatory machines of latest technology have been installed to train technical personal for those units which have upgraded their machineries or have established such type of new units.  
  Donation have been given to Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce & Industry, MANTRA and Surat Citizen Council for their Conference Hall and also to Surat Productivity Council for their office premises.  
  Donation have also been given amounting to Rs.28,01,OOO/- to Hospitals, Educational and Society Organizations viz. Ashaktashram Hospital, Surat General Hospital, Mahavir Hospital, Sarvajanik Medical Trust, Udhna Education Academy, Surat Raktadan Kendra, Balaji Girls School and etc.
  It is a well known fact that Synthetic Textiles Articles is one of the major products offering a commendable share in the export performances of our Country. Exports of Synthetic & Rayon Textiles from India has surpassed the targeted volume to touch an all time high of Rs. 7811 =00 crores during the year 2002-2003. inspite of fierce global competition, continuous appreciation of Rupee vis-a-vis U.S. $ US.Dollars, withdrawal of Income Tax Benefits under Section 80HHC, imposition of Sales Tax on the sale of incentives like Transferable Licenses, DEPB and also protectionist barriers - anti dumping measures and quota restrictions created by developed Nations, it is considered to be a commendable Export performances of our Country. Out of this export performances in the Synthetic Textiles segment, Surat region alone contributed Rs. 816=00 crores with a growth rate of almost 63% of the corresponding previous year 2001-2002. The share of European Countries in the total Export was 25% and that of Meddle East Contributed 35% and the remaining percentage goes to United States of America and United Kingdom.  
  The decentralized Power Loom sector plays an important role in Indian Textiles & Clothing segment, however, time has already lapsed to the Power Loom Sector Industry to prepare itself to face the challenges on account of W.T.O. regime and also global competition. In-order to survive and expand its market share we have to think over on the modernization by installing most modern and sophisticated machineries especially automatic, semi automatic looms having bigger width Looms like 68" reed space and 72" reed space etc. by replacing the old ordinary Looms. It is a well known fact that our country have fully equipped in the preparatory capacities in producing the required raw materials up-to weaving stage. However, in the International market, most of the countries around the world are demanding for the bigger width fabrics of 58" and 60" etc. but due to lack of these bigger width weaving machines and/or insufficient capacity and capability, we are not able to compete with other countries by offering defect free bigger width fabrics in the international market.  
  Our Government has already announced a comprehensive package namely TECHNOLOGY UPGRADATION FUND (TUF). The scheme has recently enlarged to the power Looms Units for modern machineries wherein subsidy portion has also been increased from 12% to 20%. We have to take the special advantages offered by the Government and by way of this we can face the Global competition in the Textile Sector to a great extent.  
  As indicated above, our Textile Sector Industries have fully equipped with most modern and sophisticated preparatory capacities to produce high twisted varieties like Georgette, Chiffons, Chirmins, wrinkle fabrics and varieties having special effects in fall and wrap of fabrics on account of high twist. In the recent past years a huge number of Two-for-one twisters were installed in the Textile Sector especially at Surat region which has substantially enhanced the preparatory capacity to the Weaving Sector Industries.  
  In our country, Surat is the major center in producing 100% Polyester Filament based fabrics. In this segment a large number of value added varieties are also being produced like Embroidery fabrics, Burnout Brasso varieties, Butta effect fabrics, Embossed designs, pleating designs, rubber printing and hand printed varieties and also made up articles like Scarves, Parios etc. etc.  
  In the recent days it is observed that there is a good demand for the Embroidered Fabrics from different parts of the World. Surat region exporters were able to accommodate all these sudden demands of Embroidery fabrics because since last two years a large numbers of Imported most modern Embroidery Machineries were also installed in Surat region. All these installed capacities of Embroidery activities are running with a 90% efficiency so as to accommodate the demands from the International markets. There would be a good scope for the Embroidery fabrics on the export front hence we have to focus upon the production of new designs and patent in the Embroidery Sector.  
  It is a well known fact that Surat region Textile Exporters became capable in executing export orders by competing with other countries on the following points :-  
  * Surat region Exporters are able to offer and or execute smaller quantity export orders by offering various designs, patent, styles and make  
     ups to their buyers abroad.  
  * From Surat based Exporters, Buyers abroad are easily getting any types of value added varieties like Embroidery Items, Burnout Brasso ,  
     varieties High Twisted Chiffon varieties, Butta designed Fabrics, Embossed Designs and also hand printed, rubber printed fancy varieties,  
     made up articles of Scarves & Parios. However, availability of these types of value added varieties and items in smaller quantities are not  
     offering by any other countries in the International market. It is a positive advantage to the Surat Region Exporters. However, it is the last  
     hour for us to focus to produce more and more value added products in the Textile sector so as to survive and compete in the International  
     market with more strength.  
  It is needless to mention here that the technical know how, knowledge and performances in producing any types of new varieties is on the front side by the Surat based Textile Sector Units. Any types of counter samples received from a Buyer Abroad can be developed and can be offered at a competitive level which is considered to be an extra capability of Surat based exporters.  
  Most of the exporters are doing commendable efforts to boost the Export of our country but still such efforts are not fully materialized on account non availability of proper co-ordination from the Government side some of which are enumerated hereunder ;-  
  * There are multiple/double taxation at the Central Level, State Level and Local Level. For example, most of the States within the country had extended Exemption of Sales Tax on the transfer of DEPB entitlement and or transferable licenses, whereas in Gujarat we are still paying Sales Tax on such sales of Transferable Export Incentives. Frankly speaking payment of Sales Tax on the transfer/sale of these Export Incentives considered to be a double/multiple taxation on the Export front because DEPB Entitlement and/or transferable licenses became a "REPLENISHMENT" means compensation of the duties and taxes already paid on the basic merchandise once exported outside the country. Therefore, Sales Tax on the transfer/ sale of such Export incentives said to be baseless and describe to be double/multiple tax burden on the Exporting community.  
  * In certain Export segments like 100% EOU, SEZ etc. etc. Government has extended 100% exemption of Income Tax under Section 80HHC whereas the General Category Exporters who are doing physical exports and earning valuable foreign exchange to the National Exchequer are still liable to the Income Tax and no exemption benefit is extended to these Exporters. It is an arbitrary measure being taken by the Government on the Exporting Community.  
  * All of us are aware in Surat we are having full fledged Special Economic Zone (SEZ) at Sachin, however, it is quite disheartening, to know that hardly 25/30 Manufacturing Units which include a few Textile Sector Units have started functioning in this zone. The Government Local Authority and interested Exporting Associations should find out the reasons for such poor progress of the zone. In-order to upgrade the zone, we have to find out extra facilities being offered from such SEZ complexes by our competitive country like China and guide the Government of India to extend such additional infrastructural facilities as required by the zone for its successful running and progress.  
  * At the local level we have to pay octroi duty and entry tax etc; even if the goods arc subjected and meant for Export production programs.  
  * Heavy electricity duty and charges, fuel cost and also local transportation charges etc. are also badly affected to the Export growth of our country.  
  These types of multiple/double taxation and high cost burdens at various points on the Exporting community became an extra financial burden, wastage of energy and also the cost of the Export product is increasing substantially, unable to survive and complete the International market.  
History --------------------01 Photo Gallery -------------------03 Activities -------------------05
Catalogue ----------------02 Textile Industries --------------04 Surat -----------------------06
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